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Map of this trek
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P.O.Box: 8122,
Thamel,Kathmandu, Nepal
Telephone: +977-14412764, 4412865
Cell: +977-9851029613
Email: info@nepalguidetreks.com
info@peakclimbingnepal.com
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Cho Oyu Expedition

Trip Facts: Activities: 27 days Trekking & Climbing, 4 nights in Kathmandu with free day.

Start/End: Kathmandu

Destination : Mt. Cho Oyu Summit

First Ascent: 1954

Trip Duration : 40 days

Max. Altitude : 8,201 meters

Group Size : Min. 1 / Max.20

Best Season : February, March, April, May, June, September, October, November & December.

Trip Grade :

Daily walking Hour: Approx. 4-6
This expedition is an excellent opportunity for climbers to extend their experience to extreme altitudes and is highly recommended as a first 8,000m Peak, or as a stepping-stone to an attempt on Everest. The comparative ease of access, lack of objective dangers and generally uncomplicated terrain makes Cho Oyu the most attainable of the world's highest mountains.

Of the fourteen expeditions that we have organised, twelve have put climbers on the summit, making Jagged Globe by far the most experienced and successful British operation on Cho Oyu. However, like all 8,000m Peaks, the climb is a serious undertaking and demands fitness, mountaineering skill and self-sufficiency from those considering it.

We fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa and spend a few days exploring the ancient Tibetan capital, taking time to let our bodies acclimatise, before driving across the Tibetan Plateau to Chinese Base Camp. From here, we load up Yaks and trek to Cho Oyu base camp, below the north west face. The route above base camp consists mainly of low-angled snow slopes up to 30° with one short but very steep section to bypass a sérac barrier at 6,400m. We use three camps on the mountain, the highest at 7,500m is the launch pad for the summit, which is reached in 5 to 8 hours under normal conditions.

Increasingly, climbers choose to use oxygen on summit day, which we now include in the expedition cost. Our expeditions also include one climbing Sherpa for every two team members, as well as an extremely comfortable and well-stocked base camp.

The Climb
Our first foray out from base camp takes us along the glacier towards the mountain and camp 1. Because of the altitude, this first sortie up the Gyabrag Glacier and onto the mountain itself is essentially tentative and one of familiarisation. However, it provides an excellent opportunity to get a good view of the route and for everyone, including the expedition leader to assess the conditions on the mountain.

Once the expedition leader is happy with the team's acclimatisation and weather permitting, we begin to climb the mountain in earnest. In order to reach a position from which we can make successful summit bids, the Sherpas will make sure that all camp stores and food are in the right place on the mountain at the right time. The leader will make sure that everyone is fit and well acclimatised.

Throughout the climb, the leader will adopt a programme that exposes the team members to ever increasing altitudes. This will be achieved by "climbing high and sleeping low" until each person feels suitably well adjusted to make the next move up to a higher camp. From each successive camp, the team will then climb high once more, before returning to the lower camp to sleep. Finally, each team member will go back down to base camp for a prolonged rest of at least 4 days before moving up to occupy camp 3 in readiness for the ultimate climb to the top. Camps on the mountain are located at:
Camp 1 - 6,400 metres
Camp 2 - 7,000 metres
Camp 3 - 7,400 metres

Camp 1 is at 6,400 metres and 5 to 8 hours from base camp. The camp is reached by a stiff climb from the head of the glacier at 6,100m. From here, the route follows steep scree, which improves as height is gained. Camp 1 is sited on a broad shoulder of snow, which leads up to a ridge above the camp.

Above camp 1, a snow ridge leads easily to a series of ice cliffs. The way through these involves climbing a steep 50m ice wall at over 6,600m. Although straightforward, this is the hardest climbing on the route as it involves a huge effort to climb steep ice at such an altitude. Improved acclimatisation and greater familiarity makes the prospect of subsequent climbs through the ice cliffs less daunting but the challenge remains physically tough each time we make the journey to camp 2. Throughout this section, fixed ropes are placed in conjunction with the other teams operating on the mountain at the same time. Above the ice cliffs, there are several large crevasses which we make our way around until they finally give way and we reach the site of camp 2 at 7,000m. Depending upon the snow conditions, this can be a very demanding day of 6 to 8 hours.

Camp 3 is at 7,400m and about 4 hours above camp 2. The top camp is located beneath a rock band that cuts the snow slopes of the upper basin. Looking south as we rise above the beautiful Nangpa Gosum peaks, we can see the peaks of Nepal and, to the north, the brown and yellow earth colours of the arid Tibetan plateau. Though the distance to camp 3 is short and the way easy, the altitude makes big demands of everyone.

Once in camp 3, we must make every effort to prepare for the following day. This means drinking, eating and resting. In order to function effectively on summit day, it is vital to drink as much as possible and this involves a big effort since the altitude makes the easiest physical work very demanding and the task of boiling water slower than usual. However, we must resist the temptation to relent and to relax as drinking and eating, in order to replenish the calories and fluids lost during the climb so far, is the highest priority if we are to be successful in our ambition of climbing Cho Oyu.

Summit day begins early as it takes several hours to make breakfast, to drink adequately and to get fully equipped before leaving the tent. Being west facing the sun hits the camp late so there is no rush to leave until shortly before first light. Once on our way, easy snow and rock ledges lead through the short rock band above the camp. Gradually the angle of the slope relents until we emerge onto the broad windswept back of the mountain. Now it is only a matter of putting one foot in front of the other to slowly gain the distant summit where Everest is the only summit visibly higher. It is not the only mountain to be seen, however, and the magnificent vista as we cross the vast summit plateau towards our high point includes Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Menlugtse, Gyachung Kang and Gaurisankar, as well as all the peaks of the Khumbu Himal. We reach the summit 5 to 8 hours after leaving camp 3.

ItineraryDay 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1,340m)

Day 02: Expedition preparations

Day 03: Drive to Kodari; cross border; drive to Nayalam

Day 04 : In Nayalam (3400m), acclimatization

Day 05-06: Drive to Tingri, rest a day for acclimatization

Day 07- 09: Drive to Chinese base camp (4,800m); rest and acclimatization

Day 10-12: Trek to Advanced Base Camp (5,700m)

Day 13 - 35: Climbing period to summit Cho-Oyu Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Summit

Day 36: Trek from ABC to Chinese BC

Day 37: Drive to Nayalam

Day 38: Cross border; Drive to Kathmandu

Day 39: Free day & Evening celebration meal

Day 40: Departure from International Airport.

Note: It is possible to combine with some other activities such as white water rafting and wildlife safari. The itinerary can be customized according to your duration of holiday.

Service Includes

• Porters/Yaks to carry equipments and food all the way to BC & back.
• Full board accommodation en-route to/from Base camp.
• One head Climbing guide/Sardar.
• Cook & kitchen boys at BC.
• Experienced & skillful High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa for one Client)
• POISK Oxygen (08 bottles per client & 06 per Sherpa).
• Mask & regulator mask set ( must be return after the Expedition).
• Highly preferable meals at BC with complete hot drink & normal beverages.
• Exported High altitude food for higher camps (ready to eat food).
• Best quality Tents at BC single or twin sharing as per the client desire.
• All necessary kitchen equipment.
• Best quality Dinning tent with enough no of teble & chairs, plus inside the tent, we will set Gas Heaters to make the Dinning all enough warm.
• Complete carpeting inside the dinning tent.
• Comfortable & portable wooden toilet at the base camp.
• A nice portable wooden shower room with hot water at the base camp.
• High quality high altitude tents for above BC use.
• Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
• Enough EPI (high altitude) gases with burners for higher camps use.
• Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose.
• Radio walkie-talkie set to each client with base station & permit cost.
• Satellite phone for emergency purpose ($ 4 chargeable for personal call).
• Generator/solar panel with accessories for recharging & power supply purpose.
• Gammov bag for medical purpose.
• Insurance of all local team members.
• All airport/hotel transfers.
• Day tour program around KTM.
• Celebration meal & pre-briefing.
• Expedition blessing Puja arrangement at Katmandu and Base camp.
• Last but most important COMPLETE SET UP INTERM/MIDDLE CAMP with sleeping bags, sleeping mattress, food & drinking stuff & cooking crew.

Service Excludes

• Medical and personal high risk insurance
  
• Nepal visa
• Major meals in Kathmandu.
• Personal climbing gears.
• Personal natures expenses.
• Cost of emergency evacuation.
• Summit bonus & Tips.

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