Best Peak Climbing in Nepal
Nepal is a beautiful country with the most towering mountains. Nowhere in the world can we see such an affluent presence of mountains with such heights. It is the hub of mountains and mountaineering is one of the popular sports everybody want to experience here. In this article we are going to talk about the 5 best peak climbing in Nepal.
Climbing peaks in Nepal are not only for summiting the peaks but also a great way to have climbing knowledge, for learning back up and safety skills in the high altitude climbing routes, for having an experience of climbing equipment, befriend with the camping crews, ready to eat energy foods and challenge your body and brain.
There are myriad peaks and one is more beautiful than the other. The dazzling white peaks all around will surprise you more than anything in your lifetime. The peaks of Nepal are quite challenging which gives a hard time to all the climbers. There is no other big adventure in the world than mountain climbing.
Along with eight of the world’s highest mountains in the country, Nepal is a mountaineer’s paradise. The ultimate glory of mountaineering is reaching the summit of Mt. Everest, but there are other technical challenges like Lhotse beside it or you can take on any of the other 326 climbing peaks that are waiting for you.
The mountains of the Himalayas are the most precarious in the world. Most of the peaks of our country are above 5,000 m above altitude. Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Annapurna are some of the popular peaks above 8,000 m in altitude. They are the true natural gems of the entire Himalayas.
The history of mountaineering in Nepal was started along with the successful expedition of Mount Annapurna in 1950 by a French Expedition led by Maurice Herzog. Similarly, Mount Everest was first summited by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. After the successful expedition of Everest, the wave of climbing peaks came to Nepal.
Besides these eight giant peaks, 326 other mountains in Nepal are open for mountaineering expeditions and out of them, 103 have never been climbed before. Nepal offers mountaineers more opportunities than any other country in the world and throws endless challenges at them including the less glorified trekking peaks which still require climbing gear and climbing skills. Thus, Peak Climbing in Nepal is a different kind of experience.
The mountains of Nepal are grouped into different categories depending on their height and under whose authority they lie. The Ministry of Tourism is responsible for the expedition peaks above 6,500 m, while the Nepal Mountaineering Association is responsible for mountains that are known as Trekking Peaks. These peaks range in altitude from 5,800 m to 6,584 m, and call for climbing skills and climbing gear and should not be taken lightly despite the misleading title.
Expeditions to peaks below 5,800 m do not require climbing permits although they will require other forms of permits to enter specific regions. All expeditions are required to pay refundable garbage deposits while expeditions to peaks above 6,500 m will also be required to employ a Liaison Officer.
Table of Contents
- 1 5 Best Peak Climbing in Nepal
- 2 Island Peak
- 3 Lobuche Peak
- 4 Tent Peak
- 5 Chulu West Peak
5 Best Peak Climbing in Nepal
Mera Peak (6,476 m) is a famous mountain peak located in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is one of the best peak climbing in Nepal. It lies in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. Administratively it lies in the Solukhumbu district of the Sagarmatha zone in eastern Nepal. Additionally, it is at the east of the main Khumbu trekking trail of the Everest region. Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. It contains three main summits: Mera North (6,476m); Mera Central (6,461m); and Mera South (6,065m).
Mera Peak is an ideal climb for people who are not expert climbers but still want to reach the top of the lofty mountains of Nepal. Col. Jimmy Robert and Sen Tenzing have first climbed the Mera summit in the year 1953. This trek is one of the ideal treks for breathtaking views of the Himalayan Panorama. Surprisingly, you can observe five 8,000 m peaks from the top of Mera that includes Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Kanchenjunga.
The most usual route to Mera Peak is directly through the Zatra La Pass, but some follow the route that heads south from Lukla and up the beautiful Hinku Valley and later returns via Zatra La Pass. This offers you stunning scenery of beautiful Nepalese wilderness and rich Sherpa culture.
Highlights of Mera Peak Climbing
- Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal.
- Mera Peak is the perfect destination for people who are not expert climbers but still want to experience adventure. It is for beginners. No technical knowledge is required.
- Mera Peak Expedition is the centre of attraction only because five of the world’s tallest mountain peaks are located in its periphery. Mt. Everest, Mt.Cho Oyu, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Kanchenjunga and other remarkable mountains of the Everest Region are worth watching from its summit.
- Mera Peak Trekking brings you close to Sherpa cultural villages, ancient Buddhist Monasteries, Glaciers, rugged terrain, beautiful and uninhabited Hinku Valley and its unique flora and fauna etc.
Mera Peak Climbing Difficulty
Mera Peak is officially the highest trekking peak and best peak climbing in Nepal . The altitude you ascend is great enough to suffer you with altitude sickness. Not only the altitude; the snowy surroundings will make your climb difficult. The weather also remains unstable at such heights. A perfectly good day can suddenly turn into blizzards. The last section of the peak is a real adventure. The final 600-700 m requires climbing through snow, rocks, and ice. This part of the trek may require the use of basic mountaineering tools. Overall, Mara Peak Climbing is a strenuous and physically demanding one. However, with adequate preparation and physical fitness, you can conquer this towering peak. The success of this trek also largely depends upon the preparation, trekking route, trekking seasons, trekking gear.
Mera Peak Climbing Season
Peak Climbing in Nepal is a seasonal activity. Autumn and spring are the best seasons for climbing most of the mountains in Nepal. Autumn Season (September, October & November) and Spring Season (March, April & May) are the perfect seasons for this Mera Peak Climbing. During these months, the days will be sunny and warm in the Himalayas. The skies will be clear and the atmosphere of the Himalayas will be alluring. Thus, we can have great views of the mountains. Nevertheless, some adventure-seeking clients who don’t like hustle and bustle during the journey also can choose December, January, and February months for this trip. Monsoon season (June, July, and August) will be a pretty difficult time for climbing in the Himalayas because of monsoon.
Climbing Island Peak is a sublime effort. Island peak otherwise known as Imja Tse stands at an altitude of 6,189 m above sea level. It is located at the beautiful Imja Valley in the Everest Region and is among the best peak climbing. It is named Island Peak because it looks like an island in a sea of ice from Dingboche. This peak is the most searched trekking peak in the world. In comparison to other mountain peaks, this peak is relatively difficult to climb. The Island Peak climb is straightforward with some technical sections in the beginning and near to the summit. However, the experienced trekking guide and your determination make you succeed in the mission.
Island peak climbing with Kalapatthar is one of the most popular and second busiest trekking destinations after the Annapurna region. It was first conquered by an expedition team that was preparing to climb Mt. Everest in the year 1953. The summit of this peak is a little bit difficult to climb however descent is comparatively easier and faster. The scene from the summit is incomparable as well as captivating.
Island Peak Trekking leads you through the rich countryside which is also a melting pot of both Nepalese as well as Tibetan cultures. The journey also offers some of the most bewitching scenery of Khumbu and Dingboche. The stone village filled with Buddhist shrines excites us towards the mountain.
Highlights of Island Peak Climbing
- Island Peak (6,189m) is a mountain in the Sagarmatha National Park of the Himalayas of eastern Nepal.
- Originally it is Imja Tse which was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest expedition because it appears as an island in a sea of ice if viewed from Dingboche.
- Island Peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar.
- Island Peak Expedition is suitable for exploring Namche Bazaar; the Sherpa Capital.
- Island Peak Climbing rewards us with breathtaking views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Ama Dablam etc.
- It is best suitable to study Sherpa culture and civilization.
- Island peak Trekking cost is reasonable
Island Peak Climbing Difficulty
The climb to Island peak is physically demanding and technically challenging. This peak is the distinct and most popular climbing peak of the Everest Region. This peak climbing is a perfect adventure full of thrill and excitement.
Island Peak best suits the trekkers who want complete thrill and adventure in trekking or climbing. The Island peak is relatively difficult with several technical sections. It has several glaciers, crevasses, rock walls and ridge walking.
The summit view of this mountain is mind hovering. It is just the perfect place to have close insight into the mountain panorama, pristine natural and cultural world. Your previous trekking experience is a must for these three peak climbing. Preparation plays a vital role. We recommend you to have adequate preparation with due considerations.
Best Time for Island Peak Climbing
The best season for climbing Island peaks is spring and autumn. They are the busiest trekking season in Nepal. However, for the pleasant, obstacles free and successful summit you can travel in April or October. During those months you won’t have to face the harsh cold nor have you to encounter any rainfall. The days will be sunny and ensure clear visibility.
Lobuche Peak is the second most popular climbing peak in the Khumbu Region after Island Peak. It too follows the classic Everest Base Camp Trek route up to Gorakshep (5,180 m). Lobuche Peak is one of the best peak climbing in Nepal. The trek starts with a scenic mountain flight to Lukla. Then we should head towards Namche Bazaar and Tengboche Monastery. These locations are well known for their interesting past and strategic locations. From Tengboche Monastries, you can have enchanting and stunning views. Still following the Everest Base Camp Trek we reach 5,550 m at Kalapatthar where are marvellous views of Mount Everest and surrounding high peaks. You spend the night at Gorakshep (5,180 m) and explore Everest Base Camp.
Our trail to Lobuche Peak diverts from the regular trekking route. Lobuche Base Camp is at Lobuche Village itself and High Camp is situated at 5,400 m from sea level. Once at Lobuche Base Camp, our climbing Sherpa team will teach/ refresh climbers on the basic use of the climbing gear. We begin the ascent of the summit at 2:00 AM to avoid the high winds later in the day. And also in this route, we see the mesmerizing sunrise over the mountains!
After taking in this glorious sight, descend to Lobuche Base Camp and trek to Pheriche. From Lobuche, you again follow the trekking route to Lukla for your flight to Kathmandu.
Lobuche Peak Climbing is a perfect adventure into the Himalayas, offering stunning unique views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, culminating with stunning views of enormous peaks, such as Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Mount Everest. Enjoy the feeling of being dwarfed by a multitude of surrounding peaks. Trekkers need to be physically fit and preferably with previous climbing experience, or begin preparation before beginning this awesome journey. You will be instructed in all aspects of this climb, which includes the use of crampons, ice axes, and rope techniques. Sherpa Expedition and Trekking work with local Sherpa based in Dingboche and Khumjung. Our Sherpas team is highly experienced and knows Lobuche Peak inside out. For the safety of our climbers, we provide one climbing guide for every 2-4 climbers, based on the climbers’ experience. Lobuche Peak is best climbed in April and May, followed by October and November.
Highlights of Lobuche Peak Climbing
- Ascend a 6,000m peak within a relatively short timeframe
- Unparalleled views of the Khumbu Valley’s giant peaks.
- An excellent introductory expedition into Himalayan climbing
- Tengboche Monastery
- Everest Base Camp
Lobuche Peak Climbing Difficulty
Nepal has innumerable climbing peaks. Lobuche peak is among the popular climbing peaks in Nepal. The Lobuche Peak is located in the Everest region. Lobuche has been divided in to Lobuche East (6,119 m), and Lobuche West (6,145 m). Climbing Lobuche Peak means; climbing the Lobuche East Peak. Climbers prefer the south ridge route to reach the Lobuche East. Many climbers don’t attempt Lobuche West because it is a difficult peak for a climb. Lobuche Peak Climbing is a special and technically challenging than the Island Peak Climbing. Lobuche Peak Climbing requires general knowledge of climbing techniques. Lobuche Peak Climbing takes us through higher altitudes into the Himalayas. So, there are many risks of altitude problems. And, proper acclimatization is the key to a successful climb. So, do not hesitate to spend extra days for rest. The steep and rocky ascend from the Lobuche village takes us to the Lobuche Base Camp, 4950m. The ascent from the high camp is highly challenging. You will come across steep stone slabs covered with slippery ice or snow. You must climb 50 meters on a 45-degree snow wall using fixed lines to reach the proper summit ridge. Now, you’ll come across the sharp snowy ridge to the first summit. On the way to the true summit, there is a descent before the final sharp ascent. Therefore, Lobuche Peak Climbing is not simpler like other peaks of the region. It requires sufficient attention and much preparation.
Lobuche Peak Climbing Season
Autumn and Spring are the best seasons for climbing most of the mountains in Nepal. Autumn Season (September, October & November) and Spring Season (March, April & May) is the perfect time for Lobuche Peak Climbing. During these months, the days will be sunny and warm in the Himalayas. The skies will be clear and the atmosphere of the Himalayas will be alluring. Thus, we can have great views of the mountains.
Tent Peak (Tharpu Chuli) is a popular trekking peak located in the north-western region of Nepal. The top of the mountain resembles a shape of a Tent, due to this formation it is commonly known as Tent Peak. Situated in the Annapurna Sanctuary, north of the Annapurna Base Camp, Tent Peak is one of the mountains in the Annapurna Himalayan Range.
Tent peak is relatively a low altitude peak with a height of 5,663 m or 18,580 ft however it is one of the best peak climbing in Nepal. Tent Peak Climbing is suitable for those climbers who want to challenge themselves into amateur mountaineering. This smaller peak is not as challenging as the Island peak, Mera peaks, or the Yala peak. Tent peak offers excellent short trekking and peak climbing experience, which aids in your further higher mountain climb expedition.
The view from the summit of Tent Peak is awe-inspiring. The trail moves through delightful terraced farms, green hills, and Himalayan water streams. The Tent peak is just 40 Km aeronautical distance away from the tourist town of Pokhara. Expert trekking guides and veteran climbers with much experience assist you on the climb.
Tent Peak Climbing Highlights
- Breathtaking view of sunrise from the Poon Hill viewpoint
- Summiting the Tharpu Chuli or Tent Peak
- Strolling around and observing the exuberant nightlife of Lakeside in Pokhara
- Up close view of the Machhapuchhre and Annapurna I
- Relaxing in the hot springs at Jhinu Danda
- Exploring the rich cultural heritage of Gurung and Magar villages
Tent Peak Climbing Difficulty
The Tent Peak or Tharpu Chuli is graded as 2 C by the Nepal Mountaineering Association You will be using ropes, ice axe and crampons for climbing the Tent peak. It is necessary to have adequate training about climbing techniques and the use of mountaineering equipment.
The technical grade of level 2 is defined as” mountain climbing with occasional use of hands, chains or ropes.” Fitness level C is defined as “moderate: reasonably fit hikers who hike at least once a month elevation gain of 800-1500 m and distance of 15 km in a day.”
A basic level of fitness has to be maintained by trekkers and climbers. No climbing experience is required, but previous high-altitude trekking experience is always a plus.
In addition to this, you must be able to trek 6-7 hours daily for 19 days at high altitudes. The climbers must mention their pre-existing medical conditions if any to our team beforehand
Best Time for Climbing Tent Peak
The autumn months of September to November are the best time to trek in the Annapurna region and climb the Tent Peak or Tharpu Chuli. The temperature is moderate and favorable for trekking and mountaineering in the autumn season. The autumn season comes after the monsoon so the clouds will have entirely disappeared by then. The bright blue skies provide an excellent view of the mountains. Many tourists come to Nepal for travel, trekking, and mountaineering in autumn as it is the peak season. Hence, it might be a little more crowded than usual. You might need to Book in advance for safety.
The spring months of March to May are when the flowers bloom, and the hills turn red with rhododendron trees. The best time to climb the Tent peak for a first-time mountaineer would be the spring season because it offers spectacular views of the region. The summers in Nepal are wet. There is the danger of avalanches and landslides, so it is not favourable for trekking or mountaineering in the summers. Winters are cold with heavy snowfall. The tea houses also shut shop. Hence, the best season for climbing in autumn and spring.
Chulu West Peak
Chulu West Peak is a part of the bigger Damodar Himal Range of Manang in western Nepal. It is located in the North-East part of the famous Annapurna Mountain Range. This trekking route offers you magnificent views of Annapurna I, Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and many other adjoined mountains. And it is one of the best peak climbing in Nepal. The very first ascent of this prestigious peak was made by a Japanese Expedition Team in 1953. Though this peak is a permitted trekking peak, it is a little more technical in comparison to Chulu Far East Peak (6,059m). Therefore, if you are hoping to step high upon Chulu West Peak, you must have good physical condition and a high level of stamina. Chulu West Peak Climbing gives you an interesting peek climbing experience.
This exciting Chulu West Peak Expedition brings you closer to a tranquil landscape, lush vegetations, traditional cultural heritages and the classic mountains. Annapurna itself is the world’s most beautiful region. Mt. Dhaulagiri and Annapurna stand as the pinnacle of the entire western region. Climbing high to such a splendid and beautiful peak itself is a sense of great victory.
Chulu West Peak Trekking with Nepal Guide Trek and Expedition starts with a short scenic drive to Chamje, the starting point of our exotic journey. From Chamje, we will move ahead following the trail that passes alongside the Marsyangdi River to Manang Glacial Lake. Passing along the trail that goes through the long chain of mountains like Annapurna and Manaslu, we step on the arid land of Manang. From here we will make our successive journey towards Chulu West Summit. Before we head towards the summit, we must have proper acclimatization at Camp I. Chulu West Peak consists of several technical sections. Therefore, we must follow every single instruction given by our climbing experts. As soon as we reach the summit of Chulu West Peak, we will be fascinated by the stunning views of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri and other surrounding mountains of similar height and shape. After having a successful ascent of the peak, our journey leads us to Jomsom through Thorong La Pass. Our wonderful Chulu West Peak Climbing with Nepal Guide Treks and Expedition ends with a short scenic flight from Jomsom to Pokhara and a drive back to Kathmandu.
Highlights of Chulu West Peak Climbing
- Chulu West Peak Climbing is technically straightforward.
- This climbing expedition is all about ascending Chulu West Peak (6,419m).
- Chulu West Peak is one of the highest Trekking Peaks.
- This climbing brings you across the amazing Annapurna Circuit Trek.
- During Chulu West Peak Expedition you will have the wonderful experience of Gurung Culture and hospitality.
- This trek brings you across the spectacular and one of the most popular: Thorong La Pass (5,416m).
- Chulu West Peak Climbing incorporates the superb and fascinating views of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Manaslu etc.
- Chulu Peak Climbing includes historical and religious sites such as Muktinath.
- If Chulu Far East is the Island Peak of the Annapurna, then Chulu West is the Mera Peak alternative.
Chulu West Peak Climbing Difficulty
Chulu West Peak Climbing is located in the Annapurna mountain region and this is one of the adventurous and challenging climbing peaks of the Annapurna region. The trekkers who are bold and looking for challenging climbing peaks in Nepal can go for Chulu West Peak Climbing Expedition. This peak is one of the challenging peaks of Nepal. Trekkers should have sound physical fitness and some prior experience of peak climbing for the successful completion of this trek. From its base camp, you will climb the rock band with some difficulty to the northwest shoulder of Chulu West where another camp can be established on a snow plateau above 5,530m. You have to ascent along with the rope fixed on the rock band. Then finally you have to continue up the progressively narrowing ridge towards the summit from the snow plateau. The altitude, steep snow slopes, sharp rock bands, unstable weather all create many difficulties while undertaking this climbing. Undoubtedly, Chulu West Peak Climbing is comparatively more difficult than the Chulu East Peak Climbing.
Chulu West Peak Climbing Season
Annapurna Region is the best trekking destination in Nepal. Spring and Autumn are undoubtedly the best time to visit Nepal. Autumn (September, October, and November) is the best time to travel to the Annapurna region. During this season, the landscapes appear vibrant and invigorated, with brilliantly clear skies that create picture-perfect views of the hills, rivers and gorges. The daytime temperatures generally remain pleasantly warm that ranges between 12ᴼ C-15ᴼ C, but the nights can get chilly cold.
Spring (March, April, and May) is another peak Season. The winter snow begins to dissipate and the crystal clear skies create wonderful views of the green valleys and hills. The lower regions are covered in colourful rhododendron blossoms and the temperature starts getting warmer, which is perfect for trekking. As May approaches, the days become hotter, and the humidity causes a kind of haze to surround the peaks of hills that are visible from the lower regions.
Winter (December, January, and February) is extremely cold, and as the altitude rises, the temperatures sharply lower down. January and February are the coldest months. Though the days are chilly cold, the nighttime temperature drops below the freezing point. The bright sunny days even in winters offers splendid views of the Himalayas.