Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing is among the best adventure in Nepal. Nepal is a country with extreme varieties of patterns of cultures and social life. It has been best identified for the mountains. The mountains have become the identity of real Nepal. The mountains of Nepal are the most beautiful panoramas in the world. Despite their significant heights, they are charming and appealing.

Island peak otherwise known as Imja Tse stands at an altitude of 6,189m above sea level. It is located at the beautiful Imja Valley in the Everest Region. It is named Island Peak because it looks like an island in a sea of ice from Dingboche. This peak is the most searched trekking peak in the world.

Island peak climbing with Kalapatthar is one of the most popular and second busiest trekking destinations after the Annapurna region. It was first conquered by an expedition team that was preparing to climb Mt. Everest in the year 1953. The summit of this peak is a little bit difficult to climb however descent is comparatively easier and faster. The scene from the summit is incomparable as well as captivating.

Island Peak Trekking leads you through the rich countryside which is also a melting pot of both Nepalese as well as Tibetan cultures. The journey also offers some of the most bewitching scenery of Khumbu and Dingboche. The stone village filled with Buddhist shrines excites us towards the mountain.

In this piece of writing, I am going to tell you everything regarding Island Peak Climbing. Please read this before you surf to another site.

The highlight of Island Peak Climbing:

  • Island Peak (6,189m) is a mountain in the Sagarmatha National Park of the Himalayas of eastern Nepal.
  • Originally it is Imja Tse which was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest expedition because it appears as an island in a sea of ice if viewed from Dingboche.
  • Island Peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar.
  • Island Peak Expedition is suitable for exploring Namche Bazaar; the Sherpa Capital.
  • Island Peak Climbing rewards us with breathtaking views of Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Ama Dablam, etc
  • It is the best option to study Sherpa culture and civilization.
  • Island peak Trekking cost is reasonable
  • Hike to Kalapatthar
  • Scenic Mountain Flight
  • Homage to the Tengboche and Khumjung Monastery

Where is Island Peak

Island Peak is a beautiful mountain peak situated in the Everest Region of Nepal. It is an extension of the Lhotse and Everest. The ridgeline drops off Lhotse right on to the summit of Island Peak.

The Island peak commonly known as the Imja Tse is located in the Imja Valley of the Everest region. The valley is home to the amazing glaciers running down directly from the mountains.

The Island peak coordinates 27˚ 55’ 21’’ N latitudes and 86˚ 56’ 10’’ E longitudes in the Sagarmatha National Park. It is in the eastern part of Nepal. The administrative location of the peak is the Solu-Khumbu district of Province No. 1. The peak is between the border of Nepal and Tibet.

It is not that difficult to locate this peak. After reaching Dingboche in the Everest Region, you can see this peak. The peak looks like a beautiful island floating in the sea of ice. The peak nestles in the hometown of Everest, the tallest mountain in the world, which is also a plus point for the travelers.

How do you get to Island Peak?

The standard Island Peak Climbing itinerary lasts for 14 to 17 days. The climbing expedition begins in Kathmandu. Travelers take a flight to Lukla first from Kathmandu. The 30-40 minutes’ long flight is one of the most scenic flights in the world with views of some of the world’s tallest mountains including Everest.

From Lukla, they trek to Phakding then to Namche Bazaar. They will spend an acclimatization day in Namche and trek further on to Tengboche then to Dingboche and eventually to Chukkung where they often take another day for acclimatization.

From Chukkung, they will trek to the Island Peak Base Camp and stay there the next day for pre-climb training. The next day, they will start the climb. The climb takes 10-12 hours. The climbers often start climbing as early as 2 Am. During the afternoon, there will be a strong gust of wind at the peak. Therefore, they have to cover it before noon.

The climbers begin on a sandy path and the trail gradually turns into a boulder-strewn path after moving a little higher. The further they go, the more the slope narrows and eventually leads to a rock channel. By following the rock gully to a ridgeline they move further to the snout of the summit glacier. Then, climb up a steep snow-covered slope to reach the summit ridge from where the short climb to the summit starts.  This is the most challenging and physically demanding section of the peak. The entire climbing requires technical climbing equipment.

Even though Island Peak climbing is challenging and strenuous, the climb is rewarding. Glorious views ofAma Dablam, Makalu, Baruntse, and Lhotse along with a gorgeous spread of the Khumbu Himalaya from the top of Island Peak are something to cherish forever.

How difficult is Island Peak Climbing?

The climb to Island peak is physically demanding and technically challenging. This peak is the distinct and most popular climbing peak of the Everest Region. Peak climbing is a perfect adventure full of thrill and excitement.

Climbers mark this peak as a harder climbing. This Alpine PD+ classified trekking peak is very demanding and challenging. Island Peak is physically tough because of its extreme altitude, numerous crevasses, and steep headwall at the end. The first part is physically very hard. Once you reach the glacier field, you have to set up ropes and use the crampons.

In comparison to other mountain peaks, this peak is relatively difficult to climb. The Island Peak climb is straight forward with some technical section in the beginning and near the summit. However, the experienced trekking guide and your determination make you succeed in the mission.

Despite the difficulties, many trekkers want to undertake this adventure each year because it is the most enjoyable adventure. Unquestionably, this is the most sought after trekking destination in Nepal. This is the second busiest trekking route in Nepal where Annapurna Base Camp Trek tops the list.

When is the Best Time for Island Peak Climbing?

It is possible to trek in Nepal almost throughout the year. In general, the climate of Nepal is the subtropical monsoon climate. That is to say, Nepal experiences hot wet summer and cool dry winter.  Therefore, trekking is enjoyable throughout the year except during the height of monsoon months (mid-June-end of August). On that note, Island Peak can be scaled all the year-round.

Many climbers have successfully climbed this peak even in the winter. It is not a technically difficult mountain to scale if you are comfortable with the extreme temperature in winter. If you are new to the mountain and cannot withstand the extreme cold, it is not for you.

The best and most suitable time of the year for Island Peak Climbing is during spring (March to early June) and autumn (September to November). These seasons coincide with Everest Expedition timing, so along the climbing route, you will encounter many Everest expedition team during April and May. If you are a novice mountaineer and want to savor the best climbing experience and view, go to the island peak climbing expedition during spring. It is also one of the busiest climbing seasons of the year.

Autumn is another best season for traveling in Nepal. The weather during autumn in the mountain tends to be clear and it is also considered the best season to scale the Island Peak.  In general, autumn is the best and popular season to visit Nepal and go for any sort of activity. The temperature during autumn is moderate. The autumn temperature is the most hospitable for mountains. Besides that, the hills are beautiful with the blossoms of Rhododendron and villages are colorful with the advent of festivals during the autumn season.

Summer invites monsoon rain for several days resulting in landslides and avalanches in some dangerous places. It is not a favorable season to go for peak climbing or any sort of trekking in Nepal. The thick fog grooving around the mountain head obscures the view and continuous rainfall prevents safe trekking and mountaineering.

 Island Peak climbing is also possible during the offseason. If you have decided to undertake this adventure in the offseason, you must be well-prepared and have strong determination to cope with the extreme situation. Always remember to get equipped with proper gear and expert crew members. Teahouse and Lodge at alpine altitude often get closed during winter due to heavy snow-fall. You must check the availability of teahouses in the high altitude of the Everest region.

Preparation for Island Peak Climbing

The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today.  Preparation is key to the success of any activity.  Good preparations are a must for successful peak climbing. You need to consider several things before going for peak climbing. Here, are some tips for successful Island Peak Climbing. Please go through it.

The most important thing for successful Island Peak Climbing is your physical condition. You must have good physical condition and strong endurance capacity for this peak. So, you must prepare yourself before the climb. You would better join a mountaineering course for 4-6 months. Otherwise, you can join the gym and have aerobic training, cardio, stress endurance training, hiking training.

Island Peak Climbing

Similarly, you can also practice jogging, cycling, swimming, hiking, etc. regularly. Your previous experiences in mountaineering are also important. So, you must practice hiking to some smaller peaks. Also, you should be careful about your diet. You must include plenty of protein, carbohydrates, and minerals in your diet. A balanced diet is very important for physical fitness. Moreover, you must be mentally ready to cope up with the adverse situations in the mountain. The weather is unstable at high altitude and you should also spend a couple of days in a camp. Hygiene matters a lot for the success of the climb. In addition to all these, you must also go through the Island Peak Gears checklist and have enough collection of them.

Island Peak Climbing Preparation at a glance:

  • Gain technical climbing knowledge, experience
  • Acclimatization and pre climbing session
  • Check up your health
  • Learn to adjust your body at high altitude
  • Get permits
  • Have stress endurance training
  • Collect sufficient gears as per the season
  • Stay positive in the mountain

Island Peak Climbing Gears and Equipment

Island peak is a popular mountain peak of the Everest region. Island Peak is a difficult ascent. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for a successful climb. Here is the list of the must to include equipment.

  • Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.
  • Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.
  • Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.
  • Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.
  • Ascending device or Jumar
  • Descending or belay device
  • Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling
  • Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners
  • Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop
  • Ice axe: An ice axe with a wrist strap for climbing

Permit and Cost for Island Peak with EBC

You need a climbing permit to climb Island Peak. You will need permits to enter the Sagarmatha National Park as well. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. You must have the following permits for Island Peak climbing:

Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (the US $20)

Island Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:

March, April, and May: US $250

June, July, and August: US $70

September, October, and November: US $125

December, January, and February: US $70

Tips for Island Peak Climbing

  • Pack sufficient, collect right gears and equipment as per the season
  • Get the permits and register your entry
  • Acclimatize and Acclimatize, do not travel in haste
  • Get trained properly
  • Do not travel alone, hire a professional guide and porter
  • Do not drink or smoke, drink plenty of clean drinking water
  • Be updated with the weather
  • Avoid spring snowfall and winter winds
  • Have a positive attitude


Unquestionably, Island Peak Climbing is the most appealing, most vigorous, and mostly traversed trekking destination in Nepal. Though it is a climbing adventure it is best acknowledged as the trekking peak. Remember that it is not a trekking peak. It is the most beautiful peak in the entire Khumbu Region. The peak is suitable for climbers who love complete adventure and witness the most terrific beauty of the gigantic peaks of the Himalayas. The stunning beauty of the locale, diverse and dramatic landscape, unbelievable hospitality, exotic collection of rare birds and animals, unimaginable culture and traditions, age-old shrines, etc. make this trip ubiquitously the most desired adventure in Nepal. This is a must not miss the trek. It is a piece of heaven on earth and the charm of this trek cannot be described in these few words.

Do think about it. It is welcoming your adventure spirit…!!!

Interested in Island Peak Climbing then here you go!


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