Mera Peak Climbing
Mera Peak Climbing is graded as a strenuous peak climbing in Nepal.
Mountains look more beautiful than any scene on the earth in the light of the morning. The word “beauty” is not just enough to describe the elegance of the mountains. They look pretty attractive when they shine with the early sunshine. The bright and glittering mountains appear so different at that time and they steal the heart of us.
Mera Peak (6476m) is a famous mountain peak located in the Himalayas of Nepal. It lies in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. Administratively it lies in the Solukhumbu district of Sagarmatha zone in eastern Nepal. Additionally, it is at the east of the main Khumbu trekking trail of the Everest region. Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. It contains three main summits: Mera North (6476m); Mera Central (6461m); and Mera South (6065m).
Mera Peak is an ideal climb for people who are not expert climbers but still want to reach the top of the lofty mountains of Nepal. Col. Jimmy Robert and Sen Tenzing have first climbed the Mera summit in the year 1953. The best time to climb Mera is either Spring (March, April, and May) or Autumn (September, October, November) for breathtaking views of the Himalayan Panorama. Surprisingly, you can observe five 8000m peaks from the top of Mera that includes Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga.
Table of Contents
- 1 Highlights of Mera Peak Climbing:
- 2 Where is Mera Peak?
- 3 How do you get to Mera Peak?
- 4 How Difficult is Mera Peak Climbing?
- 5 When is the best time for Mera Peak Climbing?
- 6 Preparation for Mera Peak climbing
- 7 Permit and Cost for Island Peak with EBC
- 8 Mera Peak Climbing Gears and Equipment
- 9 Interesting Facts about Mera Peak
Highlights of Mera Peak Climbing:
- Highest Trekking Peak of the World: Mera Peak
- Stunning views of the 5 mountains over 8000 m altitude
- Wild, uninhibited, and beautiful Hinku and Hongu Valleys
- Unique Sherpa culture and hospitality
- Ancient shrines and temples
- Incredible contrasts and complexities of landscapes
- Varieties of floras and faunas
Where is Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is a beautiful mountain peak situated in the Everest Region of Nepal. It is a mountain in the Mahalangur section, Barun-sub section of the Himalaya, and administratively in Solukhumbu district of the Sagarmatha Zone in Province No. 1.
Mera Peak is truly an amazing climbing peak located at the end of Hinku Valley of the Everest Region. The Mera peak coordinates 27˚ 42’ 33’’ N latitudes and 86˚ 52’ 06’’ E longitudes in the Sagarmatha National Park. The peak is between the border of Nepal and Tibet.
The peak is a prestigious peak located in the Sagarmatha region. The peak is the most celebrated peak in Nepal.
How do you get to Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is ubiquitously the most adventurous and most beautiful peak in Nepal. Though it is a climbing peak, trekkers regard this as one of the most celebrated trekking peaks in Nepal. Getting to Mera Peak is not that difficult and there are several options to get there. Here is the description of some of the most popular routes to Mera Peak.
First of all, the trekkers will have a scenic flight to Lukla. It takes around 30 minutes to get there by air. Then, they will trek towards the north to Paiya. They have to trek through the remote and beautiful region of Hinku valley. They will pass through beautiful, quaint little villages like Panguam, Nagindingma, Kothe. From there, they can trek to Tagnag and continue the trek until they reach Khare. At Khare, some of the agencies provide some basic mountaineering training to prepare for their final push to Mera Peak. Khare is also an acclimatization spot. There, they get time to relax and enjoy the beautiful village and landscape. After Khare, the trekkers will hike to Mera Base Camp. At Mera Base Camp, they will be camping. From Mera Base Camp, they will trek to High Camp, here too they will be camping. From here they will finally climb to the summit of Mera Peak. The return journey is more rapid but a relaxed one.
In this option, first of all, the trekkers fly towards Lukla. After that, they will follow the Everest Base Camp Trek route. On the way to EBC, most of the trekkers will acclimatize at Namche Bazaar. From Namche Bazaar, they will trek to Mera Base Camp. Then, they will ascend to the High Camp and finally to the summit. After scaling the height of the peak, they will climb down by using the same route.
In this option, the trekkers trek towards the East directly to Zatra La Pass (4610 m) after flying to Lukla. From here, they will enter the Hinku valley and trek to Tagnag to Mera Base Camp. This is one of the most challenging routes. However, it is the shortest one. This route is strongly discouraged for inexperienced climbers and high-altitude trekkers. You should not undertake this route also because it doesn’t have enough acclimatization spots. The trekkers will directly land at Lukla (2810m) and reach Zatra La pass within 2 days of the trek.
This route is only for experienced climbers wishing to challenge themselves and push their limits.
How Difficult is Mera Peak Climbing?
Mera Peak is never particularly technically difficult, but there is the altitude to contend with which makes this an exciting and challenging trip. The climb to Mera Peak is physically demanding and moderately challenging. This peak is the distinct and most popular climbing peak of the Everest Region. Peak climbing is a perfect adventure full of thrill and excitement.
Mera Peak is a doable trek for those who have already gone for Mount Kilimanjaro or Everest Base Camp Trek. Climbers mark this peak as moderately harder climbing. Mera peak is classified as a physically demanding trekking peak in Nepal. Mera Peak is physically tough because of its extreme altitude, numerous crevasses, snowy fields, and steep and rugged terrain. It is also placed as a challenging trekking peak due to its elevation but this peak requires basic mountaineering skills to tackle the high-altitude glacier crossing.
In comparison to other mountain peaks, this peak is relatively difficult to climb. The Mera Peak climb is straight forward with some technical section in the glacier field and near to the summit. It is also very technical above the high camp. Mera Peak has some crevasses around, and the way can be long and challenging. However, the experienced trekking guide and your determination make you succeed in the mission.
Despite the difficulties, many trekkers want to undertake this adventure each year because it is the most enjoyable adventure. Unquestionably, this is the most sought-after trekking destination in Nepal. This is one of the busiest trekking routes in Nepal where Annapurna Base Camp Trek tops the list.
When is the best time for Mera Peak Climbing?
It is possible to trek in Nepal almost throughout the year. In general, the climate of Nepal is the subtropical monsoon climate. That is to say, Nepal experiences hot wet summer and cool dry winter. Therefore, trekking is enjoyable throughout the year except during the height of monsoon months (mid-June to end of August). On that note, Mera Peak can be scaled all the year-round.
Many climbers have successfully climbed this peak even in the winter. It is not a technically difficult mountain to scale if you are comfortable with the extreme temperature in winter. If you are new to the mountain and cannot withstand the extreme cold, it is not for you.
The best and most suitable time of the year for Mera Peak Climbing is during spring (March to early June) and autumn (September to November). These seasons coincide with Everest Expedition timing, so along the climbing route, you will encounter many Everest expedition team during April and May. If you are a novice mountaineer and want to savor the best climbing experience and view, go to the Mera Peak climbing expedition during spring. It is also one of the busiest climbing seasons of the year.
Autumn is another best season for traveling in Nepal. The weather during autumn in the mountain tends to be clear and it is also considered the best season to scale the Mera Peak. In general, autumn is the best and popular season to visit Nepal and go for any sort of activity. The temperature during autumn is moderate. The autumn temperature is the most hospitable for mountains. Besides that, the hills are beautiful with the blossoms of Rhododendron and villages are colorful with the advent of festivals during the autumn season.
Summer invites monsoon rain for several days resulting in landslides and avalanches in some dangerous places. It is not a favorable season to go for peak climbing or any sort of trekking in Nepal. The thick fog grooving around the mountain head obscures the view and continuous rainfall prevents safe trekking and mountaineering.
Mera Peak climbing is also possible during the offseason. If you have decided to undertake this adventure in the offseason, you must be well-prepared and have strong determination to cope with the extreme situation. Always remember to get equipped with proper gear and expert crew members. Teahouse and Lodge at alpine altitude often get closed during winter due to heavy snow-fall. You must check the availability of teahouses in the high altitude of the Everest region.
Preparation for Mera Peak climbing
The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today. Preparation is key to the success of any activity. Good preparations are a must for successful peak climbing. You need to consider several things before going for peak climbing. Here, are some tips for successful Mera Peak Climbing. Please go through it.
The most important thing for successful Mera Peak Climbing is your physical condition. You must have the good physical condition and strong endurance capacity for this peak. So, you must prepare yourself before the climb. You would better join a mountaineering course for 4-6 months. Otherwise, you can join the gym and have aerobic training, cardio, stress endurance training, hiking training.
Similarly, you can also practice jogging, cycling, swimming, hiking, etc. regularly. Your previous experiences in mountaineering are also important. So, you must practice hiking to some smaller peaks. Also, you should be careful about your diet. You must include plenty of protein, carbohydrates, and minerals in your diet. A balanced diet is very important for physical fitness. Moreover, you must be mentally ready to cope up with the adverse situations in the mountain. The weather is unstable at high altitude and you should also spend a couple of days in a camp. Hygiene matters a lot for the success of the climb. In addition to all these, you must also go through the Mera Peak Gears checklist and have enough collection of them.
Mera Peak Climbing Preparation at a glance:
- Gain technical climbing knowledge, experience
- Acclimatization and pre climbing session
- Check up your health
- Learn to adjust your body at high altitude
- Get permits
- Have stress endurance training
- Collect sufficient gears as per the season
- Stay positive in the mountain
Permit and Cost for Island Peak with EBC
You need a climbing permit to climb Mera Peak. You will need permits to enter the Sagarmatha National Park as well as Makalu Barun National Park depending upon the route you choose. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. You must have the following permits for Mera Peak climbing:
Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (the US $20)
Makalu Barun National Park Entry Permit: NRS. 3000
Mera Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:
March, April, and May: US $250
June, July, and August: US $70
September, October, and November: US $125
December, January, and February: US $70
Mera Peak Climbing Gears and Equipment
Mera peak is a popular mountain peak of the Everest region. Mera Peak is a difficult ascent if you don’t arrange proper gear and equipment. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for a successful climb. Here is the list of the must to include equipment.
- Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.
- Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.
- Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.
- Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.
- Ascending device or Jumar
- Descending or belay device
- Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling
- Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners
- Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop
- Ice Axe: An ice ax with a wrist strap for climbing
- Head wears Woolen Hat, Sun Hat, Buff, Glacier Glass, etc.
- Hand Wears: Liner Gloves, Softshell Gloves, Insulated Shell Gloves, Expedition Mittens
- Foot Wears: Liner Socks, Wool or Synthetic Socks, Gaiters, Trekking Shoes, Boots
- Body Wears: Underwear, Baselayer Bottom, Long Sleeve Shirt, Softshell Pants, Hardshell Pants, Softshell Jacket, Mid-layer Top, Hard Shell Jacket, Insulated Down Parka, Insulated Synthetic Pants
Interesting Facts about Mera Peak
- Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in the world.
- Mera has 3 different and distinct summits. Mera North (6,476 m), Mera Central (6,461 m), and Mera South (6,065 m).
- Mera North is still considered the true summit.
- Mera Peak stands to the south of Mount Everest.
- There is no lodge in the Hinku or Hongu Valley. This trek is also the best one for Camping.
- The peak was first ascended by J. M. Robert and Sen Tenzing in 1953. However, the credit for scaling the true summit goes to Marcel Jolly, G Baus, and L Honills in 1975.
- The route used by the first expedition is still the standard route for this peak.
- There are several options to reach Mera Peak but they are not used by many expeditions teams as they are relatively more challenging.
Tips for Mera Peak Climbing
- Pack sufficient, collect right gears and equipment as per the season
- Get the permits and register your entry
- Acclimatize and Acclimatize, do not travel in haste
- Get trained properly
- Do not travel alone, hire a professional guide and porter
- Do not drink or smoke, drink plenty of clean drinking water
- Be updated with the weather
- Avoid spring snowfall and winter winds
- Have a positive attitude
Unquestionably, Mera Peak Climbing is the most appealing, most vigorous, and mostly traversed trekking destination in Nepal. Though it is a climbing adventure it is best acknowledged as the trekking peak. Remember that it is not a trekking peak. It is the most beautiful peak in the entire Khumbu Region. The peak is suitable for climbers who love complete adventure and witness the most terrific beauty of the gigantic peaks of the Himalayas. The stunning beauty of the locale, diverse and dramatic landscape, unbelievable hospitality, exotic collection of rare birds and animals, unimaginable culture and traditions, age-old shrines, etc. make this trip ubiquitously the most desired adventure in Nepal. This is a must not miss trek in the entire world. It is a piece of heaven on earth and the charm of this trek cannot be described in these few words.
Mera Peak is ready to welcome you. Please go for Mera Peak once in a lifetime.